December 8: Oh those crazy Catalonians

A tradition in Barcelona (and throughout the entire region of Cataluña) that we learned about at an outdoor Christmas market is the caga tió (poo log), a hollow 12 inch long log similar to these little guys.

Beginning December 8, the caga tió is given little bit to "eat" every night and is covered with a blanket so that he will not be cold. Children must take good care of the log so that it will poop presents on Christmas Day.

To make it poop, the kids beat the caga tió with sticks, while singing various traditional songs. Parents send the kids away to pray, and then sneak gifts under the blanket. There’s more to the story, but it’s enough for me to manage the idea of a log pooping presents.

We saw booths throughout the market filled with tiny and huge logs. These delightful women, representing three generations of a family, told Janet and me the pooping log story. When we asked why some of their figures had pipes in their mouths, the oldest of the group told me accessories are often added “for the children”.  Ha ha! Now that I think of it, there's a lot of smoking in public places in Barcelona, so this must help the kids get into the habit!

The Christmas market is blocks long, and is located in front of the Cathedral of Barcelona. All sorts of festivities take place on the steps of the cathedral, including a gigantic caga tió, being beaten to a pulp by kids singing at the top of their lungs. Sorry I couldn't get a better angle on the action (for fear of being whacked with a stick), but there's the smiling caga tió!

Another vendor that captured our attention was this woman, whose papier-mâché puppets were so much fun to see. She loved telling us about them, of course.

The Cathedral of Barcelona 

Our guide told us that it isn't only pooping logs that represent the scatological fixation of Catalonians during the Christmas season. Another--the caganer-- is something so weird I can't even imagine how it got a start. The caganer is a figure, often in traditional dress (see poster below) that is added to a family's manger scene somewhere off to the side, not near the manger or the baby Jesus. The caganer has many stories attached to it, including that its purpose is to fertilize the ground of the nativity scene. There are many deep and philosophical treatises written about other meanings for including this fellow in the Nativity.

 

Unfortunately, the shop wasn't open when we were in the neighborhood. If so, we could've found the perfect caganer for everyone we are related to (Evan).  I strongly suggest you click on this link to see the kinds of figures Catalonians add to their manger scenes. Queen of England pooping, anyone??

We were very lucky to be in Barcelona on the first day of the market. It was busy with locals looking for holiday decorations and crafts,  and of course we were there, taking it all in. People were accommodating of my limited ability to speak Spanish, although it wasn't too difficult understanding most of what I heard. It's been well over 25 years since I taught it or had to use it in any significant way. Where are Vivi and Hannah when I need them?!